A Guide to Scottish Cashmere: What to Know Before You Invest
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A great cashmere sweater is more than clothing—it’s an heirloom in the making. At Billie Todd, we believe luxury is measured not only by softness, but by the story and craftsmanship behind every piece.
This guide will help you understand what makes Scottish cashmere the finest in the world, how to distinguish it from inferior grades, and why investing in it is a choice that will last for decades.
Table of Contents
Why Scotland Is Synonymous With Fine Knitwear
For over two centuries, Scotland has been home to the world’s most respected knitwear. In towns like Hawick, knitting has been passed down through generations, creating a culture of skill and pride that cannot be replicated in fast fashion. When you buy Scottish cashmere, you’re buying into this heritage.
It’s not simply about history—it’s about geography too. Scotland’s unique combination of climate, soft water, and craftsmanship has created the perfect environment for producing the world’s best cashmere. Just as Champagne can only come from its namesake region, true Scottish knitwear carries with it an authenticity that cannot be duplicated elsewhere.
It All Starts With the Fibres
The difference between average and exceptional cashmere begins at the fibre level:
Grade A cashmere (the finest quality) measures just 14–16 microns in diameter, with long fibres that create unmatched softness, strength, and resilience.
Grade B cashmere is slightly coarser at 18–19 microns. It feels soft at first but pills more quickly and doesn’t hold its shape as well.
Grade C cashmere can be 30 microns wide—often used in cheap cashmere blends that feel coarse, break down quickly, and lose their appeal after just a few wears.
Fibre length matters as much as fineness. Longer fibres create smoother yarns that resist pilling and keep their shape, while shorter fibres break easily and cause sweaters to look worn after only a few washes.
At Billie Todd, we use only Grade A cashmere sourced and spun by Todd & Duncan, Scotland’s legendary yarn producer. Each batch of fibre is tested multiple times to ensure consistency, guaranteeing the exceptional feel and longevity you expect from true luxury knitwear.
The Spinning Process: Craft and Science
Todd & Duncan’s mill sits on the banks of Loch Leven, where the naturally soft Scottish water plays a vital role. This water gently opens the fibres during washing, enhancing softness and helping dyes achieve remarkable depth of colour. After use, the water is carefully cleaned and returned to the loch, reflecting a commitment to sustainability.
Spinning is as much art as science. Unlike mass producers who use high-speed machinery that trims fibres short, Todd & Duncan preserve fibre length with slower, traditional methods. The result? Yarn that knits tightly, holds its shape, and produces sweaters built to last.
Colour also sets Scottish cashmere apart. The combination of heritage dyeing methods and pure Scottish water produces hues with unusual richness and depth. This is why a Scottish cashmere sweater doesn’t just feel different—it looks different, holding its vibrancy season after season.
Loch Leven, Scotland
The Craft of Scottish Knitting
The artistry of Scottish knitters is what truly transforms yarn into heirloom-quality knitwear. Techniques honed over generations make the difference:
Dense knitting gives structure, helping sweaters resist sagging and pilling.
Hand-linking joins panels stitch by stitch, creating smooth, durable seams.
Finishing washes are done with restraint, preserving the fibre’s integrity so sweaters soften naturally with time rather than being artificially over-processed.
By the time a single sweater leaves the workshop, it has passed through the hands of more than twenty skilled artisans. Each step, from knitting to linking to finishing, is performed with precision and care—ensuring a garment that feels as luxurious as it looks.
This slow, deliberate process may take longer, but it’s the only way to create knitwear that remains beautiful year after year.
Hand-finishing a knitted cashmere garment at a knitting machine
How to Identify Quality Cashmere
When shopping for cashmere, look for these hallmarks of true quality:
Grade A fibres (14–16 microns, long length) for unmatched softness and durability.
2-ply or 4-ply yarns, which create denser, longer-lasting garments.
Traditional craftsmanship such as hand-linking and heritage finishing, which ensure longevity and comfort.
A simple test: gently stretch the fabric. High-quality cashmere will bounce back, holding its shape, while inferior blends may sag or distort. Another sign is pilling—though all natural fibres pill slightly, premium Scottish cashmere pills far less and can be easily refreshed with light combing.
By contrast, cheap cashmere often feels overly soft at first touch because it has been aggressively washed to create instant appeal. This softness is deceptive. Within months, it begins to pill heavily, lose shape, and fade in colour, leaving you with a sweater that feels tired long before its time.
Why Scottish Cashmere Is Worth the Investment
Unlike disposable fashion, Scottish cashmere is built to endure. With care, it becomes softer with age, molding uniquely to you. A Billie Todd sweater isn’t just for one season—it’s a piece you can wear for decades, and even pass down as an heirloom.
It’s also a sustainable choice. Because it lasts longer, fewer resources are consumed over time, and when its life does eventually end, it biodegrades naturally. True luxury isn’t just about how something feels—it’s about how responsibly it’s made and how long it endures.
In contrast, fast-fashion cashmere creates waste. Inferior fibres lead to garments that wear out quickly and are discarded, contributing to environmental harm. Choosing Scottish cashmere means choosing timeless design, responsible production, and sustainability without compromise.
Billie Todd’s Promise
At Billie Todd, we design in Boston and produce in Scotland, using only Todd & Duncan yarns and the expertise of artisans whose families have perfected this craft for generations. Each sweater is made to feel extraordinary from the very first wear—and to grow even better over time.
Our mission is simple: to create modern knitwear that reflects timeless tradition. By combining American design sensibility with Scottish craftsmanship, we aim to offer cashmere that feels both contemporary and enduring, stylish yet steeped in heritage.