Billie Todd FAQs

Our difference begins with our insistence on traditional Scottish craftsmanship. Every Billie Todd sweater is knitted in Hawick, a town that has been the global epicenter of knitwear for over 250 years. We produce in small batches using traditional machines, before hand-linking and finishing each garment. The result is knitwear with integrity: seams that don’t unravel, fabric that holds its shape, and fibers that get softer and stronger with time. Unlike many luxury brands that outsource production, we remain committed to Scottish expertise, ensuring every piece is built to be worn, treasured, and eventually handed down.

Scottish knitwear dates back to the 18th century and has become a symbol of quality and durability worldwide. Hawick, located in the Scottish Borders, became the heart of the industry, pioneering both hand-knitting and early knitting machinery. Fishermen’s ganseys were tightly woven to withstand the harsh North Sea winds, often with unique stitch patterns that identified entire villages. Meanwhile, Highland women produced intricate lace shawls admired across Europe for their delicacy. By the 19th century, Scottish mills like those in Hawick perfected the balance between strength and softness, building an enduring global reputation. Today, Hawick continues to represent uncompromising quality, innovation, and respect for tradition.

Scottish cashmere is prized not only for its luxurious softness but also for its durability. The secret lies in the natural water of Loch Leven, whose mineral composition gives yarn an unmatched handle during washing and finishing. This water treatment, combined with centuries of artisanal knowledge, creates fibers that resist pilling, hold their shape, and improve with wear. Scottish finishing processes are deliberately slower and more meticulous than in other countries, prioritizing longevity over instant softness. It’s why a Scottish-made sweater feels refined from the start, but also why it will continue to look and feel better decades later.

Both Scottish and Italian cashmere are admired worldwide, but they represent different philosophies. Italian cashmere is typically designed for immediate softness and fashion-forward silhouettes. To achieve this, mills often rely on heavy softeners that can reduce long-term durability. Scottish cashmere, in contrast, emphasizes heritage finishing that prioritizes strength, resilience, and longevity. A Scottish sweater is built to improve with age, holding its shape and becoming more comfortable season after season. For those who view cashmere as an investment — not just a seasonal purchase — Scottish knitwear stands apart.

Todd & Duncan, founded in 1867, is widely considered the world’s finest spinner of cashmere yarn. Based on the banks of Loch Leven, they use only the longest and finest fibers, which are then spun into yarn of exceptional softness and strength. Their heritage finishing process enhances color vibrancy while reducing pilling, ensuring garments age beautifully. Todd & Duncan is also deeply committed to sustainability: the water used in spinning is returned to Loch Leven cleaner than it was taken, and their supply chain enforces strict animal welfare standards. For Billie Todd, using their yarn is non-negotiable — it’s the foundation of every piece we create.

Every Billie Todd garment is knitted in Hawick, Scotland. This small town has been synonymous with knitwear for over 250 years, producing for some of the most respected names in luxury. By producing here, we preserve a legacy of craftsmanship while supporting a community whose livelihood is knitwear. Unlike outsourced production that sacrifices heritage for scale, our sweaters remain firmly rooted in Scottish tradition.

Ply refers to how many threads are twisted together to form the yarn. A 2-ply sweater is lightweight and perfect for layering, while a 4-ply or 6-ply offers more warmth and structure. At Billie Todd, we produce a range from airy 2-ply jumpers to substantial 8-ply shawl cardigans. Choosing ply is a matter of climate, style, and occasion — a 2-ply crew for spring evenings, a 6-ply shawl collar for winter by the fire. Explore our men’s collection and women’s collection to find the right weight for you.

Unlike cotton or synthetic fibers, cashmere does not need frequent washing. We recommend wearing your sweater two to three times before its first wash or dry clean. Each gentle wash helps fibers settle, enhances softness, and reduces early pilling. Regular refreshing also maintains vibrant color and prevents natural oils from dulling the knit. Think of cashmere care as an investment in its character — with each careful wash, your sweater becomes more beautiful.

The gold standard is hand washing: turn your sweater inside out, soak it in cold water with a wool-safe detergent, and gently agitate. Avoid wringing or stretching. If using a machine, choose the gentlest cycle at the lowest temperature, and place your cashmere in a mesh bag. After washing, roll the garment in a towel to absorb excess water, then reshape and dry flat. These careful steps protect the yarn’s integrity and ensure it lasts for years.

No. Cashmere must never go in the dryer. Heat and tumbling cause irreversible damage, shrinking fibers and ruining softness. Instead, always lay your garment flat on a towel to air dry. Place it away from direct sunlight or radiators to avoid uneven fading or warping. While this takes patience, it ensures your knit retains its luxurious drape and finish.

Yes, pilling is normal in new cashmere. Pills form when shorter fibers rise to the surface and tangle due to friction. At Billie Todd, we use long-fiber yarn from Todd & Duncan, which reduces pilling significantly. After a few washes, the fibers settle, leaving a smoother surface. Pills can be removed with a cashmere comb, which restores a pristine finish. Over time, your sweater stabilizes and pills less frequently, becoming smoother with age.

Durability begins with the longest fibers. Short fibers break easily, while long fibers form stronger yarn. We source Grade-A long-staple cashmere and have it spun by Todd & Duncan, ensuring superior strength. Combined with Hawick’s meticulous knitting traditions, this results in sweaters that hold their shape, resist pilling, and last for generations. It’s why many of our customers return years later to tell us their Billie Todd sweaters look better now than when first purchased.

Each cashmere goat produces only about 150 grams of usable fiber annually. It takes four goats to yield enough for one sweater. This scarcity, combined with the intensive labor of sorting, spinning, and finishing, makes cashmere one of the rarest natural fibers in the world. When finished in Scotland, with water from Loch Leven and centuries of heritage behind it, the result is not just rare — it’s extraordinary.