Billie Todd FAQs

Billie Todd cashmere is knitted in Hawick, Scotland, in small batches, then hand-linked and finished by hand — not mass-produced and imported. That traditional process is what makes the difference: seams that don’t unravel, fabric that holds its shape, and fibers that get softer and stronger with time. Unlike many luxury brands that outsource production, we remain committed to Scottish expertise, ensuring every piece is built to be worn, treasured, and eventually handed down.

Scottish knitwear has been a serious industry since 1820, when Hawick and towns like it built the mills and machinery that would define the craft for the next two centuries. Hawick, in the Scottish Borders, became the heart of the industry, pioneering both hand-knitting and early knitting machinery. Fishermen’s ganseys were tightly woven to withstand the harsh North Sea winds, often with unique stitch patterns that identified entire villages, while Highland women produced intricate lace shawls admired across Europe for their delicacy. By the 19th century, Scottish mills like those in Hawick had perfected the balance between strength and softness, building the global reputation that continues today.

Scottish cashmere is prized for its durability as much as its softness, and that comes down to water and finishing as much as fiber. Todd & Duncan spins and washes its yarn using the mineral-rich water of Loch Leven in Kinross, giving the yarn an unmatched handle before it’s ever knitted. Once knitted in Hawick, garments are finished using water from the River Teviot — a separate, deliberately slower process that prioritizes longevity over instant softness. It’s why a Scottish-made sweater feels refined from the start, but also why it keeps looking and feeling better decades later.

Scottish and Italian cashmere are both genuine luxury fibers, finished with different priorities. Italian cashmere is typically finished for immediate softness and fashion-forward silhouettes, often using heavier softeners that can shorten a garment’s working life. Scottish cashmere is finished for resilience: a Scottish sweater is built to improve with age, holding its shape and becoming more comfortable season after season. For anyone treating cashmere as an investment rather than a seasonal purchase, that’s the meaningful difference.

Todd & Duncan, founded in 1867 on the banks of Loch Leven in Kinross, is widely considered the world’s finest spinner of cashmere yarn — and it’s the only yarn Billie Todd uses. They select only the longest, finest fibers, spin them into yarn of exceptional softness and strength, then finish it in a way that enhances color vibrancy while reducing pilling. Todd & Duncan is also committed to sustainability: the water used in spinning is returned to Loch Leven cleaner than it was taken, and their supply chain enforces strict animal welfare standards. For Billie Todd, using their yarn isn’t a marketing claim — it’s the foundation of every piece we make.

Every Billie Todd garment is knitted in Hawick, Scotland, a town that has been synonymous with knitwear for over two centuries. By producing here, we support the same community and craftsmanship that built that reputation, rather than outsourcing to scale. Nothing we sell is knitted, hand-linked, or finished anywhere else.

Billie Todd cashmere sweaters range from 2-ply to 8-ply, depending on the weight, warmth, and structure you’re after. Ply refers to how many strands of yarn are twisted together to build the fabric: a 2-ply sweater like the Earnest crewneck is lightweight and ideal for layering; a 4-ply piece like the Douglas V-neck adds warmth and structure; a 6-ply like the Ewan crewneck is substantial enough to wear on its own in cold weather; and an 8-ply piece like the Bruce shawl cardigan is built to replace a coat. Explore our men’s collection and women’s collection to find the right weight for you.

Wash a cashmere sweater after every two to three wears, not after every single wear. Unlike cotton or synthetic fibers, cashmere doesn’t need frequent washing — each gentle wash helps the fibers settle, enhances softness, and reduces early pilling. Regular refreshing also maintains vibrant color and prevents natural oils from dulling the knit. Think of cashmere care as an investment in its character: with each careful wash, your sweater becomes more beautiful.

Hand washing is the safest way to wash cashmere: turn the sweater inside out, soak it in cold water with a wool-safe detergent, and gently agitate — never wring or stretch it. If you must use a machine, choose the gentlest cycle at the lowest temperature and place the sweater in a mesh bag. After washing, roll the garment in a towel to absorb excess water, then reshape and dry flat. These steps protect the yarn’s integrity and are what actually make a cashmere sweater last for years.

No — never put cashmere in the dryer. Heat and tumbling cause irreversible damage, shrinking fibers and ruining softness. Always lay the garment flat on a towel to air dry, away from direct sunlight or radiators to avoid uneven fading or warping. It takes more patience than a dryer cycle, but it’s what keeps the knit’s drape and finish intact.

Yes — some pilling in new cashmere is normal, and it isn’t a sign of poor quality. Pills form when the shortest fibers in the yarn rise to the surface and tangle from friction. Billie Todd uses long-fiber yarn from Todd & Duncan specifically because it reduces this significantly; after a few washes, the fibers settle and the surface smooths out. Any pills that do form can be removed with a cashmere comb, and the sweater pills less over time as it stabilizes.

Billie Todd’s cashmere is more durable because it starts with longer fibers: we source Grade-A, long-staple cashmere and have it spun by Todd & Duncan, which produces meaningfully stronger yarn than shorter-fiber cashmere. Combined with Hawick’s knitting and finishing traditions, that results in sweaters that hold their shape, resist pilling, and last for generations — which is why customers regularly tell us their Billie Todd sweaters look better years in than the day they arrived.

Cashmere is rare because of how little fiber each goat produces: about 150 grams of usable down a year, meaning it takes roughly four goats to yield enough for one sweater. That scarcity, combined with the labor-intensive sorting, spinning, and finishing process, makes it one of the rarest natural fibers in the world. When it’s spun in Kinross with Loch Leven water and finished in Hawick with water from the River Teviot — with centuries of heritage behind both steps — the result isn’t just rare, it’s built to justify the rarity.